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Il Frantolio di D'Amico Pietro

Cisternino, Valle d'Itria, Puglia · Italy
On the record

What the public record already says

Everything here comes from public sources — award lists, certification registers, the territory inventories. The rest of the story — the family, the grove, the real age of the trees, this year's lab sheet — only the mill can tell, and it is the part buyers bid on.

How it came to be

The mill, told properly

The mill in Cisternino has been pressing olives since 1917, on a hillside about 397 meters up in the Valle d'Itria, where the trulli start clustering along the road. Antonio D'Amico ran it first. His son Pietro took it over and kept going, and now Pietro's children, Antonello and Vitamaria, work alongside him, three generations without much of a gap between them. Around fifty hectares surround the mill, planted with more than 6,000 trees, many of them attributed to centuries of age, mostly the varieties native to this stretch of Puglia: Ogliarola, Nardò, Fasola, Coratina. The family converted the groves to certified organic farming under Bioagricert years ago and never looked back. Their flagship oil, Trisole Extra Vergine Biologico, is what carries the name furthest. It earned Tre Foglie from Gambero Rosso, an Extra Gold at BIOL, and in 2025 a podium finish at the Premio Mastro d'Oro, the national competition judged on the mill's own pressing. At harvest the routine holds: olives picked by hand from mid-October to December, pressed within hours, from trees that were already old when Antonio first started pressing them.

From the public record: ilfrantolio.com · olivoeolio.edagricole.it · radionorba.it

The ground it grows on

The Piana degli Ulivi Monumentali

Between Ostuni, Fasano and Monopoli, a regional law counts every ancient tree by hand, even as the disease that has reshaped Salento's groves moves steadily north.

Puglia's regional register held 343,738 monumental olives at its last official count in July 2021. Coldiretti put the press figure at 347,578 in 2023 and around 355,000 by 2024, some 250,000 within the Piana degli Ulivi Monumentali, the coastal plain between Ostuni, Fasano and Monopoli. None sit on Italy's national heritage-tree register, which under Law 10/2013 holds zero Puglia olives; the Piana runs entirely on the regional track of Regional Law 14/2007.

That law grants monumentality on one of three grounds: recognised historical or anthropological value, a trunk diameter of at least 100 centimetres, or 70 to 100 centimetres with other qualifying traits. An owner or council files a written scheda; the Commissione Tecnica's opinion, binding on any felling or relocation, leads to a provisional decree in the regional bulletin, thirty days for objections, then a definitive decree. The working register lives as a GIS layer on the regional planning portal, sit.puglia.it, an internal tool with no public search interface.

Two apps sit either side of that process and are constantly confused for each other. AppOlea is the citizen-reporting tool, the route by which an owner or a passer-by flags a tree for the census. App Ulìa is unrelated, a QR-code system tracing a bottle back to the specific tree its oil was pressed from.

The masserie carry the working memory of the numbers. Masseria Brancati, outside Ostuni, claims over 1,000 monumental specimens on 30 hectares, 800 formally registered, and presses Ogliarola alongside Coratina; its Grande Vecchio tree is put at some 3,000 years, never formally dated. At Fasano, Masseria Appia Traiana runs an adoption scheme delivering twelve litres a year per sponsored tree, from a claimed 4,500 trees.

South of the plain, Xylella fastidiosa has spread in a patchwork beyond its old containment line. The Salento core zone had its buffer cut from five kilometres to two in November 2024, while new outbreaks through 2025 reached as far as Gargano's Cagnano Varano and, by January 2026, Valenzano, putting the bacterium in all six Puglia provinces. More than 2.6 million trees have been uprooted; the University of Bari puts annual profitability losses at €132 million, near €3 billion since 2013. Replanting leans on resistant cultivars: Leccino and FS-17/Favolosa already established, Lecciana and Leccio del Corno added in 2024, though funds have processed only 440 of 9,000 applications.

A lot from the Piana carries its tree's DGR registration number and GIS position on the dossier and, this far north of Salento, a phytosanitary note confirming the grove has tested clear of Xylella fastidiosa.

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