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Aubocassa

Manacor, Mallorca (12th-c. alquería) · Spain
On the record

What the public record already says

Everything here comes from public sources — award lists, certification registers, the territory inventories. The rest of the story — the family, the grove, the real age of the trees, this year's lab sheet — only the mill can tell, and it is the part buyers bid on.

How it came to be

The mill, told properly

Aubocassa is made on a property at Manacor, in eastern Mallorca, whose name the producer traces through Albocàsser to the Arabic Albu-Kasi, "father of Kasí". The estate's history page places its origins in the island's Andalusian period, between 902 and 1229, and its estate page cites documents of the twelfth century; the owners it lists run from the Andreu family of Manacor in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries through the Despuig, who built the Renaissance chapel that still stands, and the Verí, under whom wine production peaked, to the Fuster Puigdorfila and the financier Joan March Ordines in the early twentieth century, and then the Oliver family, tenants who came to own the property. A measure of 1865 on the same page puts the estate at some 850 cuarteradas, or 604 hectares.

The oil venture dates from December 1998, when, in the words of the producer's team page, it first went to market. The operating company, Agrícola Aubocasser, is owned by Mario Rotllant Solá, co-owner of Bodegas Roda, the Rioja winery founded at Haro in 1987, with Agustín Santolaya as general director. Two extra virgin oils are made: Aubocassa, from Arbequina alone, and L'Amo, Arbequina with Mallorcan Picual, named — as the Balearic Islands tourism agency's producer record notes — for Sebastià Portell Bover, who was the estate's amo, its master, for thirty-seven years. The same record lists the oils under the protected designation of origin Oli de Mallorca.

The producer's process pages state a yield of 8.5 kilograms of olives to the litre against a standard 4.5, harvest by inverted-umbrella vibration finished by hand tools under the rule that no olive touches the ground, milling within an hour of picking and some two hours from tree to finished oil, paste temperatures held below 27°C, and storage at 20°C in stainless steel under nitrogen.

From the public record: aubocassa.com · illesbalears.travel

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