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LibraryThe MillsPortugalAna Carrilho / António Maçanita project
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Ana Carrilho / António Maçanita project

Alentejo (recovered estates) · Portugal
On the record

What the public record already says

Everything here comes from public sources — award lists, certification registers, the territory inventories. The rest of the story — the family, the grove, the real age of the trees, this year's lab sheet — only the mill can tell, and it is the part buyers bid on.

How it came to be

The mill, told properly

The project of the oleologist Ana Carrilho and the winemaker António Maçanita is documented in an article on the Portuguese portal SAPO, which describes an initiative that recovers centenary olive trees scattered across properties in the Alentejo — some of them estimated, in the article's account, at up to a thousand years old — farmed without agrochemicals on schist and granite soils under a dryland regime. The work begins in the field with the mapping and technical evaluation of each grove; the result, which the producers compare to a puzzle, is six limited-production labels made from the Galega variety, each extraction analysed and tasted separately. "É urgente conservar a diversidade, mas também este trabalho da paisagem, destas árvores," Carrilho says in the article, warning that farmers have been replacing these old trees with faster, more immediately profitable plantings.

Carrilho's record in the trade is documented by the business magazine Executiva: training in agro-industries at the Instituto Superior de Agronomia in Lisbon and olive oil research in its technical studies laboratory, a master's degree at Córdoba, quality control at Carapelli in Italy, the founding of the Olivais do Sul project, and, from 2013, the direction of Esporão's olive oil business, together with certification as a sensory analysis expert with the International Olive Council and jury service in national and international competitions. The name under which the six oils are sold is not given in the SAPO article, and no producer page for the project could be opened; the record here rests on press.

From the public record: sapo.pt · executiva.pt

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